Many surprises awaited me in Can Tho, the economic centre of the Mekong Delta. Most tourists visit for a day to spend the sunrise in the famous floating markets, where countless traditional boats packed with fruits and veggies gather to trade until 10AM, supplying both locals and nearby supermarkets with fresh goodies.
When walking around, I rarely encountered other westerners; feeling motivated to let go of my shyness and strike up a conversation with strangers, I created my own fortune and spent time with locals, namely, Nhung and Duyen.
Nhung showed me the floating market and the traditional way to make noodles – mixing water and wheat, kneading the resulting gooey dough until flattened, placing it on a bamboo mat to dry under the sun, and finally slicing it into thin noodles. She also introduced me to the concept of “hot pot”, a cooking experience consisting of a flavourful broth in a large, simmering pot heated on an induction burner, and placed at the centre of the table alongside an array of ingredients so you, and your company, can prepare a meal to the liking of everyone.
Duyen shared some amusing insights into the Vietnamese language during a walk together along the city’s pleasant waterfront:
Mạ = rice sprout (or as D. described, “small baby rice plant”);
Mả = grave;
Má = mother;
Mã = horse or code.
Needless to say, pronunciation around here is key to be understood…
Duyen also brought me along when visiting her cousins, enabling me to get a glimpse of a middleclass family home. The furniture display, with heavy and austere red sandalwood chairs, and overall atmosphere were very different from any house I’ve been at – it’s not uncommon to park scooters in the living room, in front of an altar with pictures of ancestors and food offerings. But a family’s joyous reunion, affectionate interaction and hospitality towards visitors/strangers might look alike all over the world.
Towards the end of my stay, an unexpected coincidence occurred. I arrived at a restaurant but was told a special event was planned that evening and there was no food left to serve! Thankfully, I came across the owner on my way out and, after a friendly interaction, he invited me to join this gathering of locals, monks and the oldest of their monastery, who was addressed by Buddha. I was explained that He, the Enlighted One, was retreating to the mountains for an indefinite period and the ceremony was intended as a farewell, culminating in several hours of karaoke, without surprise, given the enthusiasm of Vietnamese for this form of entertainment. Maybe I had too much to eat because I didn’t feel well the days after…
Before flying to Southeast Asia, I was told by my doctor I should expect to get food poisoning within one month after arriving, based on the statistics from previous travellers. I wasn’t exactly prepared for what turned out to be 3 physically debilitating days so early into my trip, having high fever for the first time in years! Fortunately, I had all the medication needed to speed up the recovery. As I’m reviewing this post, I’m happy to report this was the most troublesome episode of the kind in 9 months of backpacking. I really must have built on some immunity!
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