Luang Prabang, the previous capital of Laos, proved to be a charming surprise the moment I arrived. I was dropped off in the centre, having to walk across the old town to reach my hostel. The route was along the Mekong River, under majestic trees that had just blossomed bright red flowers. “They are called Flame of the Forest”, a local clarified, noticing my mesmerised gaze looking up. In the days to follow, other colours, namely, yellow and purple, would become part of the palette of this UNESCO protected gem, adorning the facades of its Indochinese villas.
In the 8 countries I covered during 275 days of backpacking, there was always at least one city in each that envelops me in a special way, making me linger for a while longer for no particular reason. Here too I would end up extending my stay, glad I was on a long-term travel journey and didn’t need to rush to the next stop. Not even the temperatures, which peaked to 42 degrees, dissuaded me; instead, for several hours a day, I partook in the sleepy atmosphere of the town.
Luang Prabang is a small place yet with so much to see! Temples covered in golden leaf at each turn and young monks dressed in vivid orange mingling with locals; the royal residence and the throne room covered with beautiful mosaic scenes of Lao history & traditions; turquoise waterfalls with layered pools; viewpoints that exceed the expectations of even the most exigent sunset chasers... And, of course, local restaurants and coffees run directly at the front porch of family homes!
Laos is also home to some of the richest handcrafts made in Southeast Asia. After spending hours admiring the clothing of passers-by, who used a sort of tube skirt made of silk, and the colourful fabrics on display at the night market, I signed up for a weaving class with 2 women whose knowledge was passed down by their female ancestors. The outcome?
Not just a very meditative morning, getting to work with my hands, but mostly a cultural immersion experience! I asked for some music to be played to set a nicer atmosphere as the weaving promised to take some time… To my amusement, I was then shown a Lao song about mango sticky rice, a local delicacy found in Thailand and Laos (https://youtu.be/cA10UGKsJdg); and another on the traditional costumes of different ethnic groups in the country (https://youtu.be/cA10UGKsJdg).
While the resulting patterned bracelets took (just) 4 hours to make, most the items on display at the atelier were patiently completed over the course of months! I left hoping none of these rich techniques and heritage are lost in favour of the fast production pace, and low-quality standards, characteristic of the textile industry in our modern times.
As the feeling of trying out a new activity is so fulfilling, especially when guided by and in the company of good people, I've also adventured in the mountains for the first time at the front of a scooter backed up by a fellow backpacker, Vin, the most reassuring and patient teacher I could ask for who ignited the courage to drive in the months that followed.
And during a night out, we befriended a local named Nono. She is from Nong Khiaw and moved to Luang Prabang aged 16, defying the traditional path tread by the youth of rural areas. Bravely choosing the “city life” and deliberately delaying an early marriage and pregnancy, she is still far from considering either of those culturally accepted options 4 years later.
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