I travelled from Bangkok to Chiang Mai for a few days, to split my long journey towards a meditation retreat further north, close to the border with Myanmar. Turns out Songkran, the Thai celebration of New Year, was around the corner! Known as the Water Festival, this tradition hadn't taken place since the pandemic, so locals were particularly excited and getting ready for an entire week of cleansing away all the sins and bad luck of previous years. With much anticipation, I ended up prolonging my stay.
Originally, it was a time for families to come together and, symbolically, pour water in the hands of ancestors as well as in the Buddha statues of their communal temples. However, I realised the protocol had been modernised the moment I stepped out of my hostel on the very first day: buckets of iced water soaked me to the bones after just a minute walking down the street looking for food. I immediately headed back to change clothes, knowing I wouldn’t enjoy a meal with a wet back, a bit perplexed about what had happened.
After this intense start, I tried to make the most out of the following days by being a participant rather than a mere witness, getting a water gun and a bucket together with other backpackers. I would learn that, if you're targeted when walking around “defenceless”, you must be ready to engage with both locals and foreigners when carrying these items: they send the message you're ready for a water fight!
This week ended up being one unique, fun experience – kids were having a blast, and not only adults tapped into their childlike, playful side too, they were even more relentless in their resolve to not let any passers-by walk away dry! Wouldn't be a bad idea to import this tradition and upgrade the champagne, raisins and fireworks that characterise our New Year’s Eve, if only it wasn’t winter in Europe. After all, despite the 40 degrees, all I longed for at the end of the day was a warm shower.
By the end of Songkran, the motivation to step outside was inexistent. Tired of being drenched for so many consecutive days, I knew there was little escape from the water battles as they unfolded in both main avenues and adjacent streets. There was little else one could do, except seek refuge in the accommodation and order food. Eventually, I had the idea to call a cab (on four wheels, as not even scooters in service were spared on highways) and head to a local cinema.
I found out that each movie is preceded by a short video in honour of the King, Vajiralongkorn, with grand orchestral music and fireworks accompanying images of all his supposedly meritorious deeds, and the audience should stand up to pay their respects (although no-one did: apparently, while his father was an adored figure, the son doesn’t hold much of a reputation as a good leader). One goes to the movies for a taste of a previous routine and ends up having yet another cultural experience! And once again I was extremely fortunate and picked what has been my favourite hostel thus far, with beautiful plants, two sweet cats, friendly hosts & backpackers.
As I've stayed so long in the same place, I got to meet some incredible individuals. A special mention to Katja from Belgium & August from Sweden, very bright travellers who gave me lots of hope for the [even] younger generation; Coenraad from South Africa, who shared inspiring perspectives on spirituality; Luis from Mexico, who gave me courage when I needed it most; and Caio from Brasil, who taught me a more melodic version of Portuguese. All the conversations I've shared with each of them were meaningful & insightful, making these travels more worthwhile.
I also got to see Neeni again, my Thai guide from one year ago when I first visited Thailand, and to explore further the night markets and music scene.
P.S. I included at the end of this Step pictures from last year, when I visited Mae Sa elephant sanctuary and Buddhist temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Also, whoever spots the Hello Kitty & the Doraemon in the walls of a monastery will have me send over a souvenir from Southeast Asia
photo gallery
